5 dermatologists on the worst beauty mishaps they’ve ever had to treat

FROM DEVELOPING SEVERE ALLERGIES TO GETTING SKIN BURNS, USING A PRODUCT OR INGREDIENT WITHOUT SUPERVISION WILL USUALLY CAUSE MORE HARM THAN GOOD

There’s a new this-will-change-your-life remedy that crops up on social media every other day—a new device that’ll zap all your zits or a new at-home mask that’ll give you brighter, tighter skin in just one use. We all flock to Instagram, Twitter and Tiktok to get the latest inside scoop on what’s cool and what you need to try right now. And so we try that LED mask or hair oil or acid peel; if it works, great. And if it doesn't work, you tried, right? But if you try something without supervision, sometimes it really can do more harm than good, and that’s exactly what your dermatologist wants you to know. We spoke to five dermatologists about the worst DIY beauty issues they've had to deal with, so you give these a pass going forward.

EASY AT-HOME REMEDIES THAT GO WRONG

Turmeric to brighten, aloe vera to hydrate and curd to exfoliate—you’ve heard of at-home remedies that have been loved by your grandparents and then passed down to you as gospel. While some may work, some food items are best on your plate, rather than on your face. “I’ve seen some people using apple cider vinegar to get rid of skin tags, but that just burns the skin and makes it harder to get rid of,” says Dr Ankur Sarin, a dermatologist. Dr Chytra Anand, cosmetic dermatologist, Kosmoderma, says that she sees a lot of patients come in with burns and a broken down skin barrier due to ingredients like lemon juice and ginger cloves. In some cases, these acidic ingredients can cause contact dermatitis, and sometimes even first- or second-degree burns. “With Indian skin, this type of trauma or irritation can cause hyperpigmentation, which can cause permanent damage and scars that are very hard to get rid of,” she says. Same goes for “miracle cures” like onion juice. Dr Madhuri Agarwal recently treated a patient that was severely allergic to the ingredient, and is struggling with a severe contact allergy from massaging raw onion juice into her scalp. 

USING PRESCRIPTION INGREDIENTS WITHOUT SUPERVISION

Using prescription ingredients for longer, or through off-label uses without the supervision of a dermatologist, can also cause major harm. Dr Renita Ranjan, chief consultant dermatologist and founder of RENDER Skin and Hair, says that steroids and hydroquinone are frequently misused because they claim to be lightening agents. “Steroids are available over the counter. They lighten the skin for the first few days, but then the skin starts thinning out and breaking down, causing stretch marks, acne and visible veins,” she says. Hydroquinone too, she says, is prescribed for a very short period of time. But if you use it too much–which is what she says she often sees in patients–it causes pigmentation issues like ochronosis, which is very hard to normalise.

TRYING THE COOLEST NEW AT-HOME TREATMENTS

Dermarolling is a popular hair-growth treatment that dermatologists usually suggest to their patients. “While using a dermaroller for collagen stimulation or hair-follicle stimulation is extremely effective, it is best left to the professionals to achieve results. I once saw a patient in my OPD who had used a dermaroller on his scalp before applying Minoxidil lotion. What he expected to give him a fuller head of hair instead caused the worst irritant contact dermatitis on the scalp. It caused more hair loss in the process,” shares Dr Niketa Sonawane, dermatologist and founder of Ambrosia Aesthetics, Mumbai. Agarwal agrees, having seen a lot of patients that have used dermarollers or microneedling devices on their faces too. “It can cause injury, hyperpigmentation and even infections if the needles aren’t properly sterilised before use,” she says.

RELYING ON STRONGER CONCENTRATIONS FOR QUICK RESULTS

Sarin says that Indian skin is not suited for medium and deep peels because it's more likely to get rebound pigmentation and surface burns. Bottled alpha hydroxy acid and beta hydroxy peels are usually at a concentration of 10 per cent or less, so they’re safe to use at home. They improve cell turnover at a slow and steady rate, reducing the chances of burning or dermatitis. But Sonavane says that many patients buy chemical peels with acid concentrations of 30 per cent or more, and then attempt to self-treat, which can cause scars and burns.

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